3 Days in Glacier

posted on : August 17, 2019 0 Comment

Glacier National Park, known as the “Crown of the Continent”, is another one of my favorite American National Parks. Established in 1910, it has around 26 glaciers (slowly melting), 700 emerald-blue lakes, waterfalls, lush green forests, and alpine meadows. Its Going-To-The-Sun Road is a photographers dream. No other place in America is known together as a national park, a biosphere reserve, the world’s first international peace park (partnered with Waterton Lake National Park), and a world heritage site. This mountainous scenic drive along Going-To-the-Sun Road can’t be missed and should be on everyones bucket list.

Getting to Glacier National Park

Located in northwestern Montana, its closest international airport is FCA, Kalispell Glacier Park International Airport. It’s an extremely small airport, but does have four major car rental agencies located inside the terminal. Be sure to check the operating hours for the car rental agency, as they have limited hours and you don’t want to arrive and not have access to a vehicle. One thing I cannot stress enough is, take the rental agency car insurance. I normally do not, as my credit card covers it. But, out of our own experience and other vehicles we saw, you can easily back into large boulders along the road, be hit by falling rocks, or even have encounters with wildlife. We saw so many damaged vehicles returning ours, it was quite shocking, so take the insurance! Most of the rental agencies charge for mileage, so keep this in mind as well when planning your budget.

Where to Stay

Nearby communities include Kalispell, Whitefish, and Columbia Fall on the west side. From the east side, the closest town is Browning, through the St. Mary entrance. The town of Browning is a very small town and is the headquarters for the Blackfeet Indian Reservation (one of the largest reservations in the United States). There is very little lodging or restaurants. If you choose to stay in this area, know that it is a long lonely drive outside the park to town. Make sure you have enough daylight to see. We have stayed at the Glacier Peaks Hotel, a casino, and enjoyed its rooms and breakfast. My recommendation; however, would be to stay on the west side of the park in one of its nearby communities or preferably stay inside the park. There are several lodges inside the park, my favorites being Many Glacier or Lake McDonald Lodge. Even if you do not stay at these, be sure to visit them. The views are spectacular and have lovely restaurants from which to enjoy those views. Most lodging inside the park does not have cell service, some not even a telephone, so this may be something you want to consider if it is important to you. By staying in the park, it does save you the one hour + drive into the park every day, plus traffic. Lodging does book out way in advance, so book as soon as you can, even 8-12 months out if possible.

When to Visit the Park

Typically Going-To-The-Sun Road doesn’t open until late June or early July. It is best to wait until mid to end of July if possible and check road closures prior to going, as it is very weather dependent. It usually stays open until the third Monday in October, but again that can change.

Entrance to the Park

Entrance Fees and Vehicle Registration are required during certain dates and times of the year.

Traveling in Glacier National Park

Highway 2 runs along the southwestern border of the park. Highway 89 enters from the east side. My favorite way to enter the park is from west to east; however, both directions offer spectacular views. Regardless, you will see both sides as you come and go to your lodging.

Going-To-The-Sun Road is a narrow two lane road reaching an elevation of 6,646 feet. The road passes through many blind curves. Pullout parking areas are small and limited. For your safety, the speed limit is 45 miles per hour, or lower in many areas of the road. Remember, many times you will find people running across the street for views, so drive slow.

As you drive, you will be mesmerized by its glorious views of valleys, mountains, and waterfalls along the way. Yet it too can be a little unnerving for those afraid of heights. The road travels along the edges of steep mountain ranges higher and higher through narrow roadways and some tunnels. At times you may even pass larger vehicles very close to your drivers window. For this reason, vehicle size is restricted. There are large boulders, stone walls, and guard rails along the road for your safety. Keep this in mind when you need to back out of anywhere.

Although narrow and steep, the road is very manageable on a very well maintained paved two lane road. Remember to take it slow, pay attention, be prepared to stop at any point, and know that pullouts are small and you may need to return to an them later when space and time allows. As the road is only 50 miles long, it takes only 2 hours to drive straight through. In saying that, plan an entire day to see this road, as there is so much to see and do along the way.

Shuttle Service

For those arriving without a vehicle, or having oversized ones, the park offers free hop on and off shuttle service between the Apgar and St. Mary Visitors Centers and runs every 15-30 minutes. Buses are air conditioned and have large windows for viewing. Lines for shuttle services can be quite long, some waiting an hour or more. Although the service does offer a good way for families to travel along with road and cut down on congestion, driving your own vehicle is my preference.

Best Time of the Day to Visit

We found visiting the park later in the afternoon, after 2 pm, very enjoyable. Many families are returning around 4pm from long hours in the park, exhausted. Parking is very manageable around this time and less traffic. With darkness setting in around 9-10 pm, allow yourself at least an hour to get off the mountain from Logan Pass, as you do not want to be driving back in the dark. If you do, remember wildlife are out. Drive extremely slow, with caution, and lights on.

Visitors Centers

There are three visitor centers: Agpar, Logan Pass, and St. Marys. You will find restrooms, stores, water, and exhibits at each, along with staff to answer questions.

Park Amenities

There are no gas stations inside the park. It best to have a full tank of gas when visiting to be safe.

Ranger led activities, those with accessibility issues, or those needing assistance can find information on National Park Service website.

There are 13 campgrounds in Glacier and picnic areas at Rising Sun, Avalanche Creek, Sprague Creek, and Apgar.

Food can be found at Rising Sun, Lake McDonald Lodge, and Apgar Village. We highly recommend Two Dog Flats Restaurant prior to the St. Mary Visitor Center. It’s a great place to get a good meal after a long day of hiking.

Cell Coverage

There is no cell phone service inside Glacier National Park. Be sure to download offline maps prior to visiting.

Glacier Safety

Believe it or not, safety should be a huge priority in this park. Many visitors will just stop in the middle of the road to view wildlife, run across the road, or back out onto the road as you try to pass. People also take risks for photographs, climbing walls, waterfalls, and cliffs. Glacier should not be taken lightly.

The number one cause of fatalities in Glacier is water. Streams and waterfalls are snow or moss covered, and slippery. The waters are very cold and swift. Mountain terrains are steep. Stay on the trails and watch where you are walking. Don’t go beyond the protective fencing or rails. Supervise children. Pay attention to your surroundings when you are immersed in photography. Don’t put yourself at risk for that selfie. Snow can hide deep crevasses and hidden cavities. Some hikes you may even need trekking poles. Think clearly and be safe. As there is no cell phone service to call for help, an ambulance can take a long time, and sometimes not even helicopters can land.

Glacier is home to many bears, mountain lions, moose, ticks, deer flies, rodents, mountain goats, and bighorn sheep. You are truly in nature when you visit. This is not a zoo. Remember that. Be sure to read up on wildlife safety and do not approach them. Feeding, harassing, or antagonizing wildlife is a crime and subject to fines. Keep at least 100 yards from bears and wolves, and 25 yards from other wildlife (including nesting birds).

Important Things to Bring

Sunscreen
Insect repellent
Rain coat or light jacket (dress in layers)
Hiking boots/shoes
Trekking pole if in snow
Lots of water, snacks and food
Bear spray (cannot be taken on the plane or across the border)
First Aid Kit
Offline Map
Shuttle Map (if used)

Fees

Entrance by car is $35 for a 7 day permit. Entrance by person (as in traveling on foot, bicycle, or group travel tour) is $20 per entry. Entrance by motorcycle is $30 per bike per entrance.

Audio Tour

Wanting to follow along with your drive? The National Park Service offers audio files to follow.

So I said 3 Days in Glacier

Of course you can do 3 days in Glacier. Do you really want to? NO! There is so much to see and do, you could spend a week or more. But I promised you three days. Lets talk about some of the activities and then I’ll give you an example of an itinerary you can follow if you chose.

Points of Interest

Apgar Visitor Center

Apgar Visitor Center is a great place to start your day. You can get maps, find out about ranger-led tours, stop for the restroom, pick up a book, and even take a hike out from this area. The shuttle service picks up here and it’s your last stop for wifi.

McDonald Lake Lodge

McDonald Lake Lodge is a must stop. The lodge is beautiful. It has a gift shop, store, restrooms, and a restaurant. This is a perfect stop to see Lake McDonald and even take a stroll along its banks to see the beautiful colored rocks in its clear waters. There are also many pullouts along the drive where you can see these colored rocks as well. Be sure to stop at some of these pullouts along the drive Going-To-The-Sun Road as you can find parking and time allows. There are many different views along this road and you will want to enjoy as many as you can.

Sacred Dancing Cascade

Sacred Dancing Cascade is a small pullout on the side of the road leading to a waterfall just north of Lake McDonald.

The Loop

The Loop (Mile Marker 24.6) offers scenic views of Heaven’s Peak along switchbacks on the road. Don’t worry if you miss it, as there are many others.

Bird Woman's Falls Overlook

Bird Woman’s Falls Overlook (Mile Marker 26.8) for a 492 foot waterfall across the mountain range on the other side of the pullout. Behind it is another smaller waterfall seen in the second picture below. Parking is very extremely limited. If you miss it, come back to it later. No not block traffic to stop. People only stay a few minutes and you can return to it later in the day or on another day up the mountain range. Most pullouts are on the right, so do not try to access it from the other direction. Roads are too narrow for any U-turns. You will have to drive to the next attraction with a parking lot to turn around and do the same to come back up.

Weeping Wall

Weeping Wall (Mile Marker 28.7) you will see water as it pours off the cliffs onto the road way.

Big Bend and Oberlin Bend

Big Bend and then Oberlin Bend (Mile Marker 29) for views of Mt. Canon, Mt. Oberlin, and Heaven’s Peak.

Logan Pass and Visitor Center

Logan Pass (Mile Marker 32) is the highest point on the Going-To-The-Sun Road that you can reach by car. It stands at an elevation 6,646 feet and is a must stop. Two of the most popular hikes in the park, the Hidden Lake trail and the Highline trail, leave from this area. You will find mountain goats and bighorn sheep in this area. There are so many mountain goats, that it is the official park symbol. Logan Pass is the main attraction site in the park and where shuttles buses disembark. It does have a large parking lot, but it is the busiest location in the park. To get parking and see wildlife, you will want to come before 8:00 am, or after 4:00 pm. The visitor center has exhibits, ranger-led activities, a bookstore, restrooms, a webcam, shuttle service, and wildlife and wildflower viewing areas. It is important to note that although there is water, there is no food at this visitor center.

Big Drift and Lunch Creek

Big Drift and Lunch Creek (Mile Marker 32.6) for wildflowers and a great spot for a picnic lunch.

Siyeh Bend

Siyeh Bend (Mile Marker 34.2)

Jackson Glacier Overlook

Jackson Glacier Overlook (Mile Marker 36.1) is the best location to see a glacier from the road.

Wild Good Island Lookout

Wild Goose Island Lookout (Mile Marker 42.5) and St. Mary’s Lake

St Mary's Visitor Center

St. Mary’s Visitor Center (Mile Marker 49.3) has exhibits, a park film, ranger-led activities, a bookstore, restrooms, astronomy programs, webcam, shuttle service, and other camping and informational programs. They do have a water fountain, but no food.

Many Glaciers Hotel

The largest hotel in Glacier National Park located at the northeastern area of the park. It features a swiss lounge, dining room, snack shop, gift shop, tours, cruises, horseback riding, ranger programs and many other activities. Even if you do not stay the night, it is worth a visit to see this gorgeous view.

Two Medicine Valley

Known for its rugged vistas, waterfalls, wildlife, and lakes. It has Glaciers most incredible rocky peaks. You can rent a canoe, take a boat tour, camp, or hike here. Again, as in many of Glaciers area, bears do frequent here. Watch out, know your bear safety, get advise from the rangers before heading out, and be alert.

Trails for Avid Hikers

Grinnell Glacier

Grinnell Glacier is one of most notable of hikes in Glacier National Park. You will see cliffs, meadows, lakes, and glaciers. This is quite a difficult hike and can be closed at times due to bear activity.

Location: Grinnell Glacier Trailhead or Many Glacier Hotel

Distance: 9.7 miles

Elevation Gain: 2040 feet

TIP To make this a shorter hike, you can take the Grinnell Valley Boat Trip from the Many Glacier Hotel, making this only 2.2 miles with a 60 foot gain in elevation. It will cross over two lakes, the Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine. You can either return by boat or continue on the hiking trail from there.

Iceberg Lake

Iceberg Lake is known for its nature hiking featuring a lake, and bird watching. It is extremely steep and frequented by bears.

Location: Iceberg Ptarmigan Trailhead

Distance: 9.3 miles

Elevation Gain: 1450 feet

Ptarmigan Trail

Ptarmigan Trail area is located in grizzly bear haven. So much, that trails in the Many Glacier area are closed frequently due to bear activity. Always check with a ranger and know bear safety.

Location: Behind the cabins near the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn.

Distance: 5 miles

Elevation Gain: 768 feet

Piegan Pass

Piegan Pass is great for seeing wildflowers, outstanding mountain views, and ptarmigan and mountain goats.

Location: Siyeh Bend Trailhead, or the Piegan Pass Trailhead from the Jackson Glacier Overlook (adding more miles).

Distance: 9.2 miles

Elevation Gain: 1850 feet

Highline Loop Trail

Highline Loop Trail is actually not a loop, it’s one way. The loop refers to a bend in the road where the trail ends. The trail is extremely popular as it follows along the Continental Divide, known as the Garden Wall. You will find wildlife, wildflowers, mountain goats, and bears on this trail. It is not for the faint of heart, as ¼ of a mile into the hike you will arrive at its famous ledge. Here you will find a very narrow rocky pathway with a drop off over a 100 feet down with hand cables attached to the walls for you to hold onto. It only lasts about 3/10 of a mile, but it can be quite unnerving, especially when others are traveling in the opposite direction and need to pass.

Location: Across the street from the Logan Pass Visitor Center

Distance: 11.8 miles

Elevation Gain: 1950 feet

Trails for Families

Hidden Lake Overlook

Hidden Lake Overlook is one of the best hikes in Glacier for everyone. It starts at Logan Pass (on the back side of the Visitor center), and is truly breathtaking. You will slowly climb up a well-defined trail over a wooden boardwalk and steps past wildflowers, waterfalls, and even across snow banks. As you climb steadily, be sure to look back for amazing views. You will likely see mountain goat and bighorn sheep along your way, and far off in the valley maybe even families of bears. At the top you will cross over streams and small ponds to a lookout of Hidden Lake. The lookout is on a wooden platform with amazing views. You may even see more mountain goats, bighorn sheep, marmots, and even wolverines in the valleys below. If you are up for it, you can make the additional 1.4 mile hike down to the lake. Don’t miss out on this beautiful hike. It’s even more gorgeous as the sun starts to set and you see the orange glow of the sun as it settles past the mountain peaks of Clements Mountain, Mt. Oberlin, the Garden Wall, Bearhat Mountain, Mt. Reynolds, and Heavy Runner Mountain. Peaks ranging up to 9,125 feet.

Location: Behind Logan Pass Visitor Center

Distance: 2.7 miles roundtrip (5.4 miles if you go all the way to the lake)

Elevation Gain: 540 feet (1325 feet if you add the lake)

Tip Trekking poles to go across it's snow banks may be helpful here.

St. Mary Falls

This is another must stop visit. The waterfalls are gorgeous. You will climb down rocky trails along paths to the first waterfall. You may even see deer (or bear) along the way.

Location: St. Mary Falls Trailhead

Distance: 1.7 miles roundtrip

Elevation Gain: 215 feet

Virginia Falls

After hiking to St. Mary Falls, continue another mile to Virginia Falls.

Distance with St. Mary Falls: 3.6 miles roundtrip

Elevation Gain: 525 feet

Trail of the Cedars

This easy trail is wheel-chair or stroller accessible. It’s a short hike on a wide trail to a waterfall. The trail is a loop and has a picnic area across the street.

Location: Just past Lake McDonald

Distance: 1 mile roundtrip

Elevation: 60 feet

Avalanche Lake

A very popular hike that starts at the Trail of the Cedars. It leads to shallow pond surrounded by mountain peaks and nearby waterfalls.

Location: Trail of the Cedars Trailhead

Distance: 4.5 miles roundtrip

Elevation Gain: 730 feet

Running Eagle Falls

A very easy family friendly trail that is wheel-chair and stroller accessible to a beautiful waterfall. Also known as “Trick Falls”, it’s actually two separate waterfalls in one location.

Location: 1.1 miles west of Two Medicine entrance

Distance: 0.6 miles roundtrip

Elevation Gain: 50 feet

Itinerary

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Extra Time?

Have a little extra time? Drive up into Canada’s Waterton Lakes National Park, only an 1 ½ hours north of Glacier National Park. The border is very small and entry is fairly quick. If you have even more time, you can drive all the way to Banff, Canada in just 4 ½ hours from Glacier. Check out my article Best of Banff to Jasper for more information on this amazing scenic drive.