Best of Olympic National Park

posted on : February 23, 2020 0 Comment

Up until a few years ago, I had never even heard of Olympic National Park. I bet many of you hadn’t either. It’s now my second favorite National Park in the State of Washington. Let me share with you the best of what I’ve learned. It’s not going to be everything in the park, but highlights that families, nature lovers, and photographers like myself may find interesting.

Olympic National Park is located on the Olympic Peninsula of the State of Washington. The park has four very distinct ecosystem regions and covers over 922,000 acres. It includes the Pacific coastline, glacier-capped mountains, temperate rain forests, and alpine regions. To locals, its known as the “Valley of 10,000 waterfalls”.

Visitors to Olympic National Park Can Enjoy:

Getting Here

Closest Airport: Seattle, WA (SeaTac)

Travel Time: From the SeaTac Airport to Hurricane Ridge (the first Visitor Center on the North Side) it takes about 4 hours driving time, nonstop. To do the entire “loop” (without stopping) it takes approximately 11+ hours.

Driving Direction: Some people drive the “loop” from Seattle US Hwy-101 towards Aberdeen. They enter the park on the south side of the peninsula going clock-wise up towards Forks, then across to Port Angeles, and back down towards Olympia. I prefer to start on the north side of the park, at Port Angeles, and work my way counter clock-wise towards Forks and then down and around towards Olympia. There are no roads going across the park. It’s also not a closed “loop”, as there are others roads that come off it (so pay attention to signs).

If you want to add US Hwy-101 down towards Oregon; or maybe even California, I would highly recommend my favorite direction of counter clock-wise from Seattle. As you come out the south side of the park, you will be in Aberdeen. From there you continue down US Hwy-101 towards the historic towns of Long Beach (the United States longest beach) and then Astoria (which has my favorite bridge).

Long Beach

US Hwy-101 through Oregon and California is very scenic and I highly recommend you travel it one day. For information traveling this dramatic coastline down towards Oregon, see one of my other articles here. Of course adding this drive to Oregon or California will add another couple of weeks to your travels; so you may want to just do sections of this road over periods of time, flying in from Portland later.

Park Information

Operating Hours: Open All Year, 24 hours a day.

Peak Season: June to September. Lines to enter the park can be long; and
visitor centers can have limited parking, especially at popular trailheads. Avoid visits on the weekends, holidays, or during peak season if possible. To follow traffic congestion, see the parks twitter page for updates. During the months of October through May, some roads and facilities may be closed or have reduced hours of operation. Remember, watch out for wildlife while driving, especially at night.

Park Pass Requirement: $30 valid for seven consecutive days. Park Passes are required within Olympic National Park, at many trailheads, campgrounds, and park lodges. Passes can be purchased through YourPassNow. Because internet is almost nonexistent in the park, you should download a paper copy to place on your vehicle dashboard prior to traveling to the park area. Electronic copies are not accepted.

Internet Connectivity: Sparse. I highly recommend downloading off-line maps on your phone and picking up a map.

Gas Stations and Food: There are very few gas stations and food centers throughout the park. It is best to have a full tank of gas, food, and water with you until evening time when you are near lodging (your safest places to find essentials).

Recommended Number of Days To Visit: You will need at least two days bare minimum to see the park. That’s basically enough driving time to make it through the park, but very little time to actually see and/or enjoy much. It is best to do over 3 – 4 days, or even longer.

Visitors Centers

Olympic National Park Visitor Center
This is the center of the Olympic Peninsula and a great place to start your adventures in the park. It is the primary visitor center in the park. You can reach this center from the north entrance of the park, near Port Angeles (going counter clock-wise). Here you will find staff to answer your questions about the park, exhibits, historical information, a kids Discovery Room, a bookstore, a couple of nature trails, permits, and a film about the park.

Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center
Another great visitor center with staff, guided walks, exhibits, a gift shop, deli, and a film about the park. You can see panoramic views of the Olympic mountain range from it’s outdoor patio, and have access to several hiking trails. Peak times to visit this visitor center are from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm. Parking may be limited if you arrive during these times. If so, your car will be held at the Heart O- the Hills entrance Station and allowed in as others leave.

Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center
Here you will find exhibits, guided walks, a few trails, and a bookstore. There is no food at this visitor center and it too has limited parking. Arriving after 4:00 pm will offer you quieter hiking and a better chance of seeing wildlife. Peak parking congestion times are between 11:00 am and 1:00 pm. Vehicles will be held at the entrance and only allowed entry as vehicles leave.

All Visitor Center operating hours vary seasonally.

Ranger and Information Centers

Wilderness Information Center
Here you will find information about trails, road conditions, safety, camping permits, and you can purchase bear spray canisters if needed.

Kalaloch Ranger Station
Providing information about the coastline, guided walks, and a book store.

Other Ranger Stations can be found at Elwha, Storm King, Sol Duc, Mora, Ozette, Quinault, and Staircase. Some have exhibits, maps, and bookstores.

Wildlife

Olympic National Park offers numerous opportunities to see many species of wildlife, including: mountain goats, black bears, black tail deer, fisher, marmots, roosevelt elk, and cougars. All park wildlife are protected and you can be subject to fines; plus the dangers of being near unpredictable animals. Do not approach any wildlife, startle them, harass, or feed them. Park regulations require you to be at least 50 yards (half a football field length) away from all wildlife.

Thinking you won’t see a bear, elk, cougar, snake, or other wildlife on your hikes? Chances are pretty high you will see some sort of wildlife. Know your wildlife safety!

Olympic National Park is also home to black, deer, and horse flies; along with mosquitoes and yellow jackets. You may want to wear insect repellant, long sleeves, and long pants when visiting.

Bats can also be seen in the park. One percent of all bats in the Pacific Northwest carry rabies, which can be fatal if exposed to it. The good thing is, from what I’ve read, there are no poisonous snakes in the park.

I have a telephoto lens.

Packing Tips to Visiting the Park

Waterproof shoes or boots (Olympic National Park is known for its moist conditions and rain)
Umbrella
Coat and/or Rain Jacket
Hat and Gloves
Dress in Layers
Extra Socks
Insect Repellant
Sunscreen
Sunglasses
First Aid Kit
Extra Camera Battery
Cell Phone Battery Charger
Food
Water
Plenty of Gas in Your Car

Lodging

Olympic National Park has limited lodging and it tends to book out way in advance. The park is so large that you will want to book something centrally located to the entire park, or close to the attractions you are visiting. A couple of popular lodges, among others, are:

Lake Quinault Lodge
This lodge is known for luxury and fine dining. It’s on the south side of the park and about a 1 hour drive to the Pacific Ocean.

Sol Duc Hot Springs
This Resort has cabins and suites relaxing among its hot springs. It’s about a 1 ½ hour drive to the Pacific Ocean.

My Favorite Lodging

Inside The Park
Kalaloch Lodge
This lodge sits along the Pacific Ocean, high on a bluff. Wake up every morning steps from the beach and to the sounds of the ocean. It’s the only lodging within the National Park directly on the beach. It too books out way in advance, and the price can be a little steep. It has cozy cabins and hotel style rooms, many with private patios or balconies facing the ocean. Don’t expect to find internet at this lodge, as much of the park has no coverage. Kalaloch Lodge is a great place for families wanting to get away from the stresses of life. It has a restaurant, gift shop, outdoor fire circle, gazebo, and grills you can rent. I highly recommend this location, if you can afford it, for morning and evening walks on the beach, sunrises and sunsets, and just relaxing.

Inside The Park
Forks Motel
This is my other favorite centrally located lodging inside the park, and honestly my go to place for budget friendly lodging. It’s a 2.5 Star Motel with free wifi and free parking. The rooms are really large and the beds are comfortable. There is a self-serve laundry room and rooms have a refrigerator, microwave, and coffee/tea maker. They also have air-conditioning. It’s only about ½ hour to the Pacific Ocean and about 50 minutes to the Rainforests (very centrally located).

The nice thing about the Forks Motel is it’s in an actual city, the small city of Forks. Do you remember the name? It’s the setting location for the movie Twilight. No, there aren’t any vampires!

Forks has everything you need after a long days hike: gas stations, grocery stores, hardware stores, shopping, and restaurants.

No matter which location you choose, make sure you know the latest check in times if you are arriving late, as many offices close early and you may need to make arrangements with them ahead of time.

My Favorite After Hiking, Open Late, Places to Eat in Forks

Pacific Pizza
The food is good and has a variety of selections, not just pizzas. Things like: nachos, salads, soups, chili, wings, hot potatoes, pastas, panini and deli sandwiches.

Blakeslees Bar and Grill
Great place for late night comfort food, live music, and games.

Points of Interest North to South "Loop"

Hood Canal

Driving Seattle towards the north entrance of the park, up US Hwy-101, you will be driving through Hood Canal. It is the only fjords in the United States, and one of four main basins of Puget Sound. This 70 mile stretch of road features vistas for views, quaint little towns, and picnic areas. You can enjoy hiking, biking, fishing, and camping. A popular location to fish for salmon, crab, oyster, and known for its saltwater trout. So popular, its shipped out millions of pounds of seafood to the region from this area.

Hurricane Ridge

Hurricane Ridge is located about 17 miles south of Port Angeles. Standing at 5,242 feet, it’s known for it’s 75 mile a hour+ gusts of wind, and its panoramic views the Olympic Mountains. It best to see it on a non cloudy day, which you will be able to tell from a ring of clouds around it, all the way from the town of Port Angeles.

In winter you can enjoy skiing, snowshoeing, snowboarding, and tubing. It has one of the only two lifts remaining within the National Parks.

In summer you can enjoy hiking, picnics, fantastic views of wildflowers, meadows, and snow-capped mountains. Interested in learning about it’s spectacular night skies? Take one of its night sky programs through the Hurricane Ridge Astronomy Program.

Popular Hiking Trails

Hurricane Hill Trail
3.2 miles roundtrip with a 700 foot gain in elevation.
The first ¼ mile of this trail has assisted wheel-chair accessibility.
It offers panoramic views of the Olympic Mountains.

Cirque Rim Trail
1 mile roundtrip with less than 50 foot gain in elevation.
It has assisted wheel-chair accessibility on a paved surface and offers views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Port Angeles.

Big Meadow Trail
½ mile roundtrip with less than 50 foot gain in elevation.
It has assisted wheel-chair accessibility on a paved surface and offers views of the meadows.

High Ridge Trail
1 mile roundtrip with a 220 foot gain in elevation.
It offers 360 degree views of the Olympic Mountains.

Lake Crescent

A 10 acre glacier carved lake known for its clear blue-green water. The lake has very little nitrogen, limiting the growth of algae, keeping it clear. It’s so clear, that in some places you may see as far as 60 foot below the waters surface.

Lake Crescent is the second deepest lake in the State of Washington, at 624 feet deep. It is home to two types of fish found nowhere else in the world, the Beardslee and Crescenti trout.

Many families enjoy this area for its small recreation and relaxation. It houses the historic Lake Crescent Lodge, built in 1915, and the Log Cabin Resort. You can find hiking, fishing, boat tours, a small convenience store, paddle boarding, kayaking, biking, picnic tables, restrooms, and a restaurant.

Storm King Ranger Station

Seasonally providing staff to answer your questions, maps, and books.

Popular Hiking Trail

Marymere Falls Trail
1.8 miles roundtrip on a dirt trail with a 400 foot gain in elevation.

This trails crosses over the Barnes and Falls Creeks through mossy forests to a 90 foot waterfall. There are two viewing points along steep narrow steps that are, in my opinion, very touristy and crowded. It is not my favorite hike, but I’ll include it because it’s perfect for families.

Sol Duc Falls and Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort

Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort
Known for its three Mineral Hot Spring soaking pools. The pools are formed from the mixture of cooling volcanic rock gasses, rain, and melting snow; deep within the rocks. The resort also has a freshwater pool and hot tubs. You can enjoy massages, dining, a poolside deli, gift shop, convenience store, and a couple of hiking trails in this area.

Sol Duc Falls Trail
1.6 miles roundtrip on a dirt trail with a 200 foot gain in elevation.

Another great stop for families, but can be rocky and not easy on strollers. It is very touristy like Marymere Falls, but families tend to love the easy hike through the forests to a waterfall. The waterfall cascades down 48 feet into a rocky canyon, and there are various viewpoints from which to enjoy it. You can hear the roar of the waterfall before even seeing it, and you may get a little wet from it’s misty sprays. Kids love it! Remember, this is a forest and not an amusement park. There are wildlife, including bears and snakes, in the forest. Stay in groups and keep children close.

Cape Flattery

After Sol Duc Falls you’ll pass through Sol Duc State Park. At this point you can venture off Us Hwy-101 towards Cape Flattery at the community of Sappho on WA-113, to WA-112, and then to Cape Loop Road. This adds an additional 2 1/2 hours of driving time (roundtrip), plus stopping for hiking. Most people keep driving the “loop” and not do Cape Flattery, but I highly recommend it if you have the time. It is breathtaking!

Cape Flattery, the oldest named feature in the State of Washington, is the furthest northwest point you can travel to in the United States. It is rich in history and part of the Makah Reservation. James Cook named it 1778 because it flattered them with the hopes of finding a harbor; hence the name. You do need a permit to park here, which you can get at various locations in Neah Bay.

Cape Flattery is known for its sunsets (weather dependent hues of gray, light pink, or yellow), sea stacks, deep caves, jade-colored waters, and dramatic coastal cliff views. As you walk across it’s boardwalks and steps in the Sitka spruce forests, you’ll feel the mist of rain on you. It is often covered in fog and receives over 100 inches of rainfall per year. Worth every step in the mist, you’ll be blown away at the end.

Cape Flattery Trail
1.5 miles roundtrip with a 220 foot gain in elevation.

Cape Flattery is heavily preserved by the Makah Tribe. It has an outdoor restroom near the parking lot, benches along the way for rest, and a picnic table near the observation deck at the end of the trail. There are no garbage cans on this trail, so please pack out any trash.

From the parking lot, you will travel across a gravel trail to narrow boardwalks. The boardwalks preserve the land and keeping you out of the mud. Please honor its preservation and stay on the marked trail.

Boardwalks are spaced with large gaps and can be difficult with strollers and/or pets. There are also no rails on most of the boardwalk, so pay attention. Starting out you will be going slightly downward, remember that as you will be traveling slightly uphill on your return. The trail alternates between boardwalks and gravel, with steps on both along the way.

Taking about ½ hour each way, the boardwalks divides into three sections, with four observation decks at the end. This allows views from all sides. Visit all three of them, as each is spectacular in its own way. The last platform offers views of Tatoosh Island with a lighthouse, built by the U.S. Coast Guard in 1857. Be sure to look for puffins, guillemots, sea lions, sea otters, and maybe even whales.

Rain misted boardwalks which can be slippery.

Decks with benches for views.

Don't forget you are at the most northwest tip
of the United States here!

Deep narrow caves with jade-colored waters
of the Pacific Ocean.

The first time we saw Cape Flattery we were taken back by its beauty. Our cell phone, what little coverage we had now, was showing Canada. We kept wondering how close we were; only to find out later was quite shocking. This very narrow inlet divides the United States and Canada from the open Pacific Ocean and Puget Sound. We wondered then, if this area was so magnificent, what was on the other side, in Canada? We had to find out! To read about the the other side, known as the “Wild Pacific Rim”, see my article on Vancouver Island here.

La Push and Rialto Beach

Located along the Quileute River, it’s managed by the Quileute tribe; living here thousands of years. La Push is very popular for whale watching during migration season. Located about 14 miles from the small city of Forks, you can find several numbered beaches; first beach, second beach, and third beach. First beach is the only one accessible by car; the others you must hike into. Hiking can be along steep bluffs, slippery terrain, and along driftwood-laided beaches. Make sure you are prepared for these hikes and keep cars locked, as these areas can be isolated.

Popular in the La Push area is Rialto Beach and the hike out to Hole-in-the-Wall. Rialto Beach is not really a sand beach, but rather rocky. It typically has a ring of clouds around it, giving it a mystic feeling. It can only be completely viewed as you walk closer to it. It is surrounded on the edges by huge piles of driftwood; which can hamper your ability to get back to the parking lot if you are not careful of tides. Be sure to print out a tide table and topographic map before walking out to either of these; and watch the time. You can find these online, at Ranger Stations, and some hotels. Be sure you know how to read the tide tables and what they mean.

Hole-in-the-Wall has huge bluffs making it especially dangerous during high tide and not being able to get up them. Plan accordingly, as it is a 3 mile hike roundtrip north of Rialto Beach out to Hole-in-the-Wall, plus the time to see the area. Remember you are walking on a rocky, slippery beach, where your feet sink as you walk. This takes longer than a normal hike on flat surfaces, and more strenuous. You’ll want to arrive at least 30 minutes before the lowest tide, those showing minus tides on the tide table, or low numbers. If the tide begins to cover the flooring under the arch, don’t go through it, and be aware of falling rocks too.

Rialto Beach has huge sea stacks, rocky caves, and tide pools where you may find starfish, sea anemones, fish, and maybe even octopus. Make sure you leave enough time to get back before the tides come in, or you will be scrambling across huge boulders with large gaps and driftwood.

Mystic feeling of Rialto Beach.

Mossy algae on slippery wet rocks.

Large driftwood along the beach.

Long stretch of huge boulders you'd have to
walk across if high tide comes in.

Tidepool Safety

Bring a copy of the Tide Table and Topographic map.
Make sure you use a watch.
Never turn your back on the ocean.
Watch for returning tides and sneaker waves.
Beaches can be slippery from wet rocks, seaweed, and algae.
Wear good waterproof hiking shoes.
Keep one foot on the ground at all times.
Don’t jump from rock to rock.
Watch for falling rocks.
Watch for crashing waves.
Pack plenty of water.
Don’t leave children unattended.
Don’t remove sea life.

Hoh Rainforest

The Hoh Rainforest once ran from southeast Alaska to the central coast of California. It is the only temperate rainforest protected in the Northern Hemisphere.

A very popular destination, it has forests filled with sitka spruce, western hemlock, and other trees; some as high as 312 feet and 23 feet around in diameter. The Hoh Rainforests gets about 140 inches of rainfall each year, allowing the trees to grow very quickly. Visiting these 500 year old trees, you will see many of them with moss hanging from its branches.

Popular Trails

Hall of Mosses Trail
0.8 mile loop with a 100 foot gain in elevation. This is a great short walk for families, with educational information along the way.

Spruce Nature Trail
1.2 miles roundtrip loop across a flat surface.

Trails are very popular and crowded. As I have said before, this is not an adventure park, but true wilderness. There are bear, snakes, and other wildlife in the forests. Don’t let children run ahead of you, stay in groups.

Ruby Beach

Ruby beach is my favorite beach in Olympic National Park. It looks completely different in high and low tides, sunrises and sunsets. You will want to see both, the different tides and sunsets/sunrises if possible. Plan to spend 3 – 4 hours here, each over 2 separate days to give you a good feel for Ruby beach. If not, you can always come back, which you will want to do.

Remember to check the tide tables, or you will be wading through cold Pacific waters to get back to the parking lot (plus the dangers of it). My favorite view is at low tide (low numbers on the tide table charts). This will allow you to walk all the way out to the rocks. Yet, high tide is beautiful too. Try to see if you can get both views in.

Ruby beach is approximately ½ hour away from the small town of Forks. The beach is about 6 miles long with a 60 foot gain in elevation. Its name came from the rose-colored gemstones found in the sand.

Parking is very limited, a very small gravel lot. Many people end up parking along the sides of the road and walking down. It’s a very short path down to the beach; but you will want to make sure you spend time from the top to see it’s most magnificent view. You can find outdoor restroom and a picnic table near the parking lot.

The path to the beach is narrow and winding. At the bottom you will have to climb over large pieces of driftwood. There is a large pool of water and large sea stacks along the beach. There a numerous sea creatures in this area like snails, crabs, sculpins, starfish, and sea anemones. Please don’t remove them.

As in my Rialto Tidepool Safety Tips, you will also want to make sure you watch children closely. It doesn’t take much for a child to drown.

View of Ruby Beach from the Parking Lot.

The top picture is low tide, the bottom is high tide. See how much of the sea stacks are covered in high tide.

Streams between the sea stacks at low tide.

Cold rushing waters of the Pacific Ocean.

Rocks on the Sea Stacks.

Feel the rushing waters of the Pacific Ocean.

Starfish

Sea Anemones

Crashing waves against the rocks with birds flying overhead.

Dusk

Sunset

Ruby beach is completely mesmerizing and one you will truly enjoy.

Kalaloch Beaches

Kalaloch Beach is home to the Kaloloch Lodge and a perfect place to stop for bird watching, sea creatures, and relaxation. Get out and stretch your legs, visit the gift shop and restaurant, or spend the night (or a few) at its lodge.

Kalaloch, meaning a “good place to land”, has several beaches; Beach 1, 2, 3, 4, and 6. I have no idea why there is not a 5, but you will find a large cedar tree between Beach 4 and 6.

Kalaloch Lodge beach area and Beach 4 are my favorite spots for tide pools and sea life. Between Beach 4 and Ruby beach you can see Destruction Island far off in the distance. It has a 94 foot tall Lighthouse built in 1890 on it.

Tree of Life

Sunsets at Kalaloch Beach

Kalaloch Beach 4

Lake Quinault and its Rainforests

Driving 40 minutes south along US Hwy-101 you will find the last location of activity in Olympic National Park; Lake Quinault and its rainforests. It is owned by the Quinault Indian Nation. People visit this area for its picturesque lake, rainforests, large trees, waterfalls, and relaxation.

Lake Quinault Lodge, built in 1926, sits here. You can enjoy boat tours, rainforest tours, paddle boarding, kayaking, canoeing, fishing, and dining. Its 31 mile scenic loop drive offers great opportunities for hiking, waterfalls, and wildlife. Mostly on an unpaved road, it takes about an hour drive, plus time enjoying stops along the way. Be sure to look for its herd of Roosevelt Elk, commonly found here. You may also see black bears, bald eagles, cougars, and black tail deer.

Receiving around 12 feet of rain a year, it is known as the “Valley of the Rainforest Giants”. It is surrounded by huge Sika Spruce (having the worlds largest, about 1000 years old). It also has Western Red Cedar, Alaskan Cedar, Mountain Hemlock, Western Hemlock, and Douglas-fir trees. Besides California and New Zealand, it holds the world’s largest trees.

Popular Trails

Maple Glade Loop Trail
½ mile loop with a 16 foot gain in elevation through maple groves.

Kestner Homestead Trail
1.3 mile loop with a 42 foot gain in elevation.
Similar to the Maple Glade Loop Trail, but not as interesting and lonelier. Walk it with a park ranger for more interesting facts about this trail and its history.

Quinault Rainforest Nature Trail
0.9 mile loop with a 111 foot gain in elevation.
A short trail with interpretive signs along the way.

Quinault Loop Trail
3.8 mile loop with a 367 foot gain in elevation around the lake.

Irely Lake Trail
2.2 miles roundtrip with a 101 foot gain in elevation hike to Irely Lake.

A couple of these trails are wheelchair accessible, with support, over packed dirt. Be sure to check a map for information or speak to a park Ranger.