Vancouver Island
Vancouver Island is in the northeastern Pacific Ocean, and is the largest island on the West Coast of the Americas. It is part of the Canadian province of British Columbia. It’s southern parts, and some nearby Gulf Islands, are the only parts of Western Canada to lie south of the 49th Parallel. The 49th Parallel is a border point between Canada and the U.S. At this point, the sun is above the horizon 16 hours a day and allows for some of the warmest climates in Canada to its southern parts.
Vancouver Island is 290 miles long and 62 miles wide. Its approximately 70 miles west of Vancouver Canada, and 205 miles north of Seattle Washington. Many people travel to Vancouver Island to visit Victoria, but it has many other fantastic areas to visit that aren’t as commonly known by tourists. Let me show you both sides. The touristy side of Victoria, and its WILD side, the Wild Pacific Rim.
How To Get To Vancouver Island
Traveling to Vancouver Island is extremely easy. You can travel by ferry (via car, bus, bike, or as a walk on passenger), and by plane. Most people travel by ferry (my favorite way).
Traveling By Ferry
Washington State
There are three ferry terminals from the State of Washington.
- MV Coho (Black Ball) Ferry Line departing from Port Angeles to Victoria. Takes about 1 ½ hours.
- Washington Department of Transportation departing from Anacortes to Sidney. Takes about 2 hours 45 minutes. Best price leaving from Washington.
- Clipper Vacations (passenger-only) ferry service departing from Seattle to Victoria. Takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes. Ticket prices are the highest traveling from Seattle.
BC Ferries
There are two ferry terminals leaving from Vancouver, Canada.
- Horseshoe Bay departing to Nanaimo (Departure Bay). Takes about 1 hour 40 minutes. My personal favorite terminal to travel to Vancouver Island.
- Tsawwassen departing to Nanaimo (Duke Point). Takes about 2 hours.
- Tsawwassen departing to Victoria (Swartz Bay). Takes about 1 hour and 35 minutes.
My Favorite Terminal: Horseshoe Bay in Vancouver, Canada
Horseshoe Bay is a gorgeous little town with shops, restaurants, and a small park along the harbor. A great place to pass the time while waiting on your ferry.
Dinner at Olive and Anchor
Ferry Traveling Tips With Your Car
Although vehicle reservations are not required, they are recommended; especially during the summer months, weekends, and holidays. Reservations made in advance, 3 days at least, will offer you a discount on BC Ferries. You can always check each ships sailing schedule to see how full it is too to help you decide when to book, and about amenities on that particular ship.
Check into the terminal at a minimum of 30 minutes to one hour prior to your departure time. If you are not checked in 30 minutes prior to your scheduled sailing, your reservation will no longer be valid and you will be placed on stand-by. *Do not arrive longer than one hour, as there is no room to accommodate vehicles waiting. Pull up to the gate and give them your reservation information so you can be checked in. They will tell you which lane to pull into while waiting for your sailing time. *Exception leaving Vancouver Island back to the U.S. – arrive at least 90 minutes prior to clear Immigration.
Lines can be very long, but it goes very fast once they start loading. They definitely have this down to a science and will shock you at how fast they can load cars, RVs, and even large trucks. Loading times can range from 15-30 minutes. If you miss your ferry, you may have a two hour wait or more.
Foot passengers should arrive 30 minutes prior, and ticket sales stop 10 minutes prior to sailings.
Parking is available at most terminals for a fee (hourly and daily). Some you can download an app to pay, which is nice to have if you need to add additional time. Be sure to take a picture of your car where it is parked, and the ticketing Kiosk for reference later, if needed.
Driving onto a ferry can seem intimidating, but it really isn’t. They have people guiding you on and it’s quite simply. Make sure you follow their directions as they flag you into the lane, and pull up fairly close to the car in front of you when parking. If you are not close enough, they will tell you. Cars can move slightly while on route, so leave some room for rocking, and be sure to put your emergency brake on just in case.
Some people stay in their cars, or sit on benches with views along the sides for those wanting to stay near their car. Most people leave their cars and go upstairs for relaxing and refreshments. Many ships have cafe style food centers, coffee shops, play areas, and gift shops.
Poutine, A Canadian Favorite of Fries, Cheese Curds, and Brown Gravy
Cheesecake with Espresso
Those traveling with pets, you may even find kennels to use on board near your car.
Upon arrival to your destination, be sure to be in your car and be ready to go 15 minutes prior. Unloading is fast! Turn on your head lights too, as it’s a requirement to driving in Canada.
Traveling by sea is very relaxing and mostly on calm waters. It can be quite enjoyable and an experience in itself. The most scenic ferry route to me is from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay, and its return. As it goes right through the narrow channels of Long Harbour and in between the islands.
The ferry terminal at Tsawwassen is not as enjoyable as Horseshoe Bay, to me. It’s not a town and no restaurants or shops to see, but it does have more frequent ferry times to catch. This makes it a good choice if you are short on time, but only for that reason, as I wouldn’t chose it as my first choice.
Traveling By Plane
There are three major airport on Vancouver Island:
- Victoria (YYJ)
- Comox (YQQ)
- Nanaimo (YCD)
You may also travel by charter to Qualicum Beach (XCU), Tofino (YAZ), Port Alberni (YPB), Campbell River (YBL), Alert Bay (YAL), and Port Hardy (YZT). You can even travel by floatplane or helicopter.
Be sure to have a valid passport, visa, or other required documents depending on which country you are originating from. Canada has very strict laws regarding entry and you can be denied entry for a number of reasons.
Currency in Canada compared to the U.S. dollar is pretty good and things are similarly priced as they are in the U.S. That being said, when the U.S. dollar is good, traveling to Canada is actually pretty cheap. Most places take credit cards, so needing Canadian Dollars is not a must, unless you need it to do laundry or something.
Car Rental, Bus, and Shuttle Services
If traveling by foot, you will need transportation by car, bus, or shuttle service on your arrival. There are several car rental companies nearby, some that will even pick you up. There are also bus and shuttle services, which you can arrange tickets through BC Transit or other third party sites and vendors.
Driving on Vancouver Island
Driving on Vancouver Island is really easy along its major highways. Some other, non highway roads, may be rugged or have pot holes. Be sure to check out Visitor Centers for information on road conditions, maps, hazards, and closing conditions. In winter months, chains and winter tires might even be necessary.
Scenic Roads
Pacific Marine Circle Route
This 179 mile full circle loop takes you from Victoria through the unique Oceanside town of Sooke and Port Renfrew. Enjoy stunning beaches, waterfalls, winding roads, steep hills, and rainforests as you travel. Here you will find hiking, zip-lining, fishing, tube floating, kayaking, and whale watching. Cell phone service and supplies, such as food and gas can be scarce in some areas, so be prepared. These winding roads will also test your driving skills. Plan at least 1 to 2 days for this drive, as driving straight through will take you at least 6 hours or more.
Nanaimo to Campbell River
Travel approximately 3 hours roundtrip along Oceanside Route Highway 19A past sandy beaches, fishing villages, seaside towns, and the tallest mountain on the island. This route is a slow paced leisurely drive that offers hiking, beaches, whale watching, and wine tasting in its own Comox Valley. Perfect for an afternoon outing.
Nanimo to Port Hardy
This 239 mile one-way, the longest of Vancouver Islands routes, takes about 5 ½ hours to travel. You will pass small villages, sandy beaches, waterfalls, and fishing towns. This road and has an abundant amount of wildlife along it, where you may see elk and black bear. Port Hardy will be your end destination where you will find yourself on rugged territory, off the beaten path and enjoy camping, boating, paddling, or whale watching. I’d suggest at least 2 days minimum, as it’s 11 hours roundtrip without stops.
Victoria to Tofino and Ucluelet
This is my personal favorite destination, and you will want days here. Many people spend weeks! No, I am not kidding. The drive is approximately 182 miles along Highway 4 and takes about 4 – 5 hours to drive it (depending on where you arrived (Victoria or Nanaimo). You will pass quaint little towns, forests, rolling hills, and coastlines. The road is easy to travel. You will find yourself ascending upwards across the mountains and back down again along lakes and coastlines. There can be times of construction and traffic, so be sure to check out conditions. Don’t be surprised if your cell phone looses signal, or you don’t find food or gas. It’s a long drive. Be prepared, take breaks, and enjoy stops along the way.
Forests of Tofino
Favorite Villages Along the Drive
Port Alberni
Port Alberni is a quaint little town that you will not want to miss. You can find shops, restaurants, museums, kayaking, water taxis, waterfalls, and hiking trails. Cathedral Grove is a popular trail found about 20 minutes prior to reaching Port Alberni.
Once you leave Port Alberni, you will be on your longest stretch of road, so be sure to fill up your gas tank and bring water and snacks.
Rushing waters from the Pacific Ocean in Port Alberni.
Starboard Grill Restaurant
Famous Candied Salmon Chowder
After you pass Port Alberni, you will travel up and down mountains, past creeks, and forests. You will know you are getting close when you reach Kennedy Lake. Sometimes there is construction here, so be sure to check road conditions before heading out.
Wally Creek
Kennedy Lake
Ucluelet
Ucluelet, pronounced “yew-kloo-let” (locals calling it just Ukee), is a small seaside town framed on three side by the Pacific Ocean. Its almost an island. It is home to the Pacific Rim National Park and is known for its wicked storm watching and winding trails along rocky cliffs. Ucluelet is one of those places that will take your breath away, allowing you days of enjoyment watching crashing waves and stunning sunsets. I literally cried the first time I saw it, thinking I never wanted to leave.
Sunsets are unique every night.
Storm watching is best from November through March, receiving some 10-15 mega storms each year with winds over 90 mph. Watch waves as they crash over rocks, sending white sea spray high into the air!
Temperatures
Temperatures on the Pacific Rim are cooler than other areas of the Island. Prepare for cool temperatures and wind, even in summer. Possibly even rain. The average summer temperature ranges around 45-65 degrees Fahrenheit. Pack a rain jacket, coat, hat, and gloves (even in summer).
In Ucluelet you will find resorts, the Ucluelet Aquarium (the largest catch and release aquarium in Canada), the Amphitrite Point Lighthouse (over 100 years old), kayaking, whale watching, wildlife, Broken Group Islands, fishing, surfing, arts, culture, and golf.
Amphitrite Point Lighthouse
Amphitrite Point Lighthouse was the default background for the Windows 7 Operating System. Do you remember it now?
Kayaking
Broken Group Islands are hundreds of islands within the Barkley Sound and are part of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Only accessible by boat, this area is one of top ten sea kayaking destinations in the world.
Wild Pacific Trail
British Columbia’s top Trip Advisor trail!
The Wild Pacific Trail is free, family friendly, and wheelchair accessible at the Lighthouse Loop area. It is a 1.6 mile loop offering spectacular views and is good for all skill levels. Although it is a short hike, or walk, you will end up spending hours (or maybe days) here.
The Wild Pacific Trail is one of the most scenic coastal hikes, a photographers dream. Really, it’s not even a hike, as it’s on paths through the forests and along bends offering spectacular views at every turn and angle. Benches are placed alongs its paths so you can stop and soak in all it’s beauty, have a picnic, or just sit and breathe. Relax, enjoy, and replenish your soul!
Enjoy a picnic lunch and watch the waves. Mesmorizing!
Along its trails you will find wildlife. Deer, birds, maybe whales off in the distance, and even black bear.
There are two main sections of the trail. The first one is a loop starting near the lighthouse overlooking the Broken Group Islands of the Pacific Rim National Park.
The second goes north all the way to the Big Beach Park, almost 3 miles. Along the Wild Pacific Trail you will find views of Barkley Sound, the Amphitrite Lighthouse, Inspiration Point, and He-Tin-Kis Beach.
The glowing ambers of dusk.
What’s not to love about the Wild Pacific Trail, or what we liked to call, our little “Jurassic Island”.
Ucluelet has many types of lodging from hotels, resorts, bed and breakfast, cabins, cottages, hostels, vacation rentals, motels, and camping. My favorite place, on a budget, would have to be the Ukee Peninsula Motel. It is a budget 2 star motel with only 19 rooms. The rooms are very large and clean. It has a microwave, refrigerator, dining table, a fan, heater, and a coffee maker. It offers free wifi and free parking. The owners are very friendly and helpful.
The best part of the hotel has to be its location. A mere 4 minute drive to the Wild Pacific Trail. There are also a couple of restaurants within walking distance and a Co-op Food Store; perfect for supplies, groceries, and picnic lunches.
Saki Sushi Restaurant in the same parking lot as the Ukee Peninsula Motel
Tofino
Tofino is world known and many Canadians will ask you when traveling to Vancouver Island if you are going to Tofino; as its Canadian’s favorite holiday retreat. Here you will find local surfers, rainforest trails, boutique shopping, restaurants, and galleries. Many people stay here for weeks to enjoy the many outdoor activities of hiking, surfing, biking, fishing, wildlife viewing, storm watching, and scenic flights. Its also the perfect destination for health and wellness, as people use Tofino to get away from every day life and its stressor. Ready for some beach yoga or esthetic treatments using Vancouver Islands own seaweed?
Tofino is bordered by the Pacific Rim National Park and many of its trails require a permit. Be sure to stop and visit the Visitor Center to pick up a park pass and map.
Tofino and Ucluelet are only 25 miles from each other. Depending on your budget and what you’d like do, either location is good in visiting the Pacific Rim.
Wildside Grill and Other Shops
Pulled Pork Ciabatta
Clam Chowder
Beaches of Tofino
Hiking
Lone Cone Trail
This is a popular trail located on Meares Island. At an elevation is 2,395 feet, its a short but grueling hike upwards. Allow at least 5 -6 hours roundtrip. To arrive on Meares Island, take a 15 minute water taxi from Tofino. Its climb to the top will offer you breathtaking views of Tofino, Clayoquot Sound, and the Pacific Ocean.
Radar Trail (Bomber Trail) – UPDATE 2020 (NOW CLOSED)
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS HIKE! HIKING IS AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Another popular trail is actually restricted, unsanctioned, and unmaintained. Tofino Tourism staff are not permitted to give you directions to this trail as it’s easy to become lost, and Search and Rescue operations run high. That being said, Parks Canada does provide a section about this trail, traveling at your own risk. It requires about 5 hours and you will travel through dense forests, muddy bogs, over tree roots and branches. It is a difficult climb and exhausting. Many people have become disordered and lost. Another reason to not travel anytime within 6 + hours of darkness.
Why are people so fascinated by a trail they are told not to go on?
Part history, part difficulty, and part being told not to I suppose. The only reason it is even mentioned in this article is because I know people are curious about it and you deserve an answer. So now you know about the trail, the risks, and that IT IS CLOSED, so don’t attempt it. Read about it through others that have traveled it before and just appreciate its history. Pictures below are from when the trail was open, which it no longer is. Now you know what it looks like, so there is no reason to try it.
History
On February 10, 1945, the end of World War II, a Royal Canadian Air Force plane crashed deep in the tops of trees in the rainforest due to engine failure. It was carrying 12 passengers and 880 pounds of bombs onboard. Not a single bomb was detonated and all 12 passengers survived. The bombs were never able to be removed from the site due to the difficult terrain, so they were set off at the site making what is today a pond (told by the locals).
Flags on tree limbs are spaced way apart and difficult to find, making it easy to get lost, not finding the next flag.
Do you see the next one? No!
Bomber Plane in the trees.
Traveling Tofino to Victoria
Stop in Coombs for a German market, artifacts, and all things unusual. Including goats on the roof!
Victoria
Victoria is the capital city of the province of British Columbia. Named after Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom, its one of the oldest cities in the Pacific Northwest. Known as “The Garden City”, it is heavy in tourism for its historic buildings, culture, history, innovation, education, and beauty. It’s also one of the top twenty cities in the world for quality of life, making it home for many retirees. Summers are usually warm and winters are cool, cloudy, and rainy; with almost no snow.
Visiting Victoria, you can’t miss its two most historic buildings. The Parliament Building, finished in 1897, and the Empress Hotel, opening in 1908. After San Francisco, the city’s Chinatown is the second oldest in North America.
Lodging
Victoria has numerous opportunities for enjoying your stay. My one recommendation would be to stay anywhere from the Legislative Assembly of British Columbia building to the Greater Victoria Visitors & Convention Bureau (around the harbor). This area is in the heart of the city and near its best attractions and views.
Parking is very limited, being to walk around at night and early sunrises to see the city is just really nice. Not wanting to stay right in the heart of the city? Victoria is actually quite large, much larger than you think. Traffic can get very congested. Keep this in mind when considering to stay further out of the city center. Although you can walk to most touristy attractions, some of them are better visited by car or public transit; unless you are a hiker like myself and don’t mind a 30-45 minute walk each way. Of course, you can also take the most romantic way too, by horse and carriage. Plus all the other unique ways vendors come up with to transport you around the city, like pedicabs.
Length of Stay
I completely unestimated this city. I had no idea Victoria was so large. You definitely want 2 or more days here. At minimum, an overnight stay. Victoria comes alive at dusk and it’s just gorgeous. You don’t want to miss the beautiful buildings and city streets all lit up at night.
Top Attractions in Victoria
- Legislative Assembly of British Columbia
- Hotel Fairmount Empress
- Chinatown
- Craigadarroch Castle
- Christ Church Cathedral
- Royal BC Museum
- Fisherman’s Wharf
- Government House and its parks
- Beacon Hill Park
- Butchart Gardens (15 miles away)
Be sure to read each attractions website for operating hours and costs. Many close early in the day. Victoria also has many other parks and gardens to visit if you like.
Legislative Assembly of British Columbia
Harbor
Craigadarroch Castle
Hotel Fairmont Empress
Government House
Dining
Milestons Grill and Bar for Outdoor Patio Dining on the Harbor
Pesto Chicken Penne Asiago
Victoria at night.
The Butchart Gardens
The Butchart Gardens deserve a section in itself. The Gardens are over 115 years old and rich in history. It has millions of bedding plants and over 900 varieties. Started by Jennie Butchart, her family lands were exhausted of limestone quarry, a cement plant her and her husband started. Jennie envisioned a garden in its place and began transforming it by horse and cart into what is today, the Sunken Garden.
Ian Ross, her grandson, at the age of 21 years was gifted the garden. Today he has turned it into the world known attraction with a Sunken Garden, Rose Garden, Japanese Garden, Italian Garden, and a Mediterranean Garden. He also added outdoor concerts, night lighting of the gardens in the summer months, and the Magic of Christmas in winters.
It was later left to her great-grandson Christopher, who added a choreographed fireworks shows. Today is owned by his sister, Robin, who added the Children’s Pavilion and the Menagerie Carousel.
The Gardens
The Gardens are perfect for the whole family. Some areas are wheel chair accessible, and parking is free. The Gardens have designated picnic areas and the Visitors Center will even hold your luggage if needed.
Start your visit at the Waterwheel Square where you can find the Visitor Information Centre, the Seed & Gift Store, and the Coffee Shop. Be sure to pick up a map of the gardens to help plan your day.
Recommended time to visit the park: 3 hours or more.
Sign the guest book!
Time of the Day to Visit
As you can imagine, the park is very busy. Arriving first thing in the morning as the park opens is your best bet to parking close to the entrance and arriving to the gardens with less people. In saying that, during the summer months, from July 4 – Sept 5th, each Saturday they will display fireworks. They are included with your ticket. Because they are so popular, you can’t leave The Gardens and return later in the day for the fireworks show. If you are arriving on a Saturday for this event (which I highly recommend), then I would recommend arriving very late afternoon to evening time (after 5:00 pm) and stay the entire evening to include the show.
Picnics and Dining
Lawn chairs are permitted, as well as blankets to sit on the lawns. These are perfect for evening concerts in the summer months. Forgot to pack your picnic lunch? During the summer months of July 4 – Sept 5th, gourmet picnic baskets are available for purchase at the Italian Garden. Wine and beer can only be consumed in the designated picnic area.
Seasonal snacks are also offered: barbecued hot dogs, soft-serve ice cream, and popcorn.
Dining Rooms
- The Dining Room
- The Blue Poppy Restaurant
- Coffee Shop
The Dining Room is an award-winning venue. It is known for its High Tea, probably every little girls dream. Reservations are highly recommended, way in advance (not the day of arrival). Here you will take in views of the private garden and overlook the Italian Garden and Saanich Inlet.
The Dining Room
The Blue Poppy Restaurant
The Blue Poppy Restaurant is cafe style restaurant. The food is actually quite good with lots of selections, including full meals, not just sandwiches. It is reasonably priced for a venue.
You must try the English Tea. So good!
Seed & Gift Store
Interested in taking some of the gardens seeds home. You can! Let the staff know so they can give you a registration sticker. All Butchart Gardens’ seeds are certified to enter the U.S. You definitely want to visit this store during your visit.
The Wharf
The Wharf features spectacular views and should not be missed. You can find it at the back of the Japanese Garden. It is also the official boat entrance to The Gardens. The Wharf features dinghies, paddle-powered watercraft, and even float planes for a fee.
Fountains at The Gardens
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So What Part of Vancouver Island is Your Favorite?
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This article is dedicated to:
Marko and Karin
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