Mount Rainier Sunrise or Paradise?-second
Mount Rainier, standing at 14,410 feet, is not only the tallest mountain in Washington, but it’s also the tallest mountain in the entire Pacific Northwest Cascade Range. On a clear day, it can be seen from Seattle and as far away as Olympic National Park, some 140 miles away.
Mount Rainier, rich in history, is an active volcano, with its last eruption in 1894. It’s early volcanic deposits are estimated to be more than 840,000 years old. It is considered one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world due to the large amount of glacial ice that could produce massive lahar (or mudflows with rocky debris and water) down the Puyallup River Valley. An eruption could cause ash to be erupted into the atmosphere as far as Vancouver and San Francisco.
Mount Rainier is home to 25 major glaciers and is known for its most recognized view of the southern side, called Paradise. Here you will see three glaciers: Kautz, Wilson, and Nisqually. You can also see the Muir Snowfields, and sometimes even hikers on their way to Camp Muir. Mount Rainier is so large, you can’t miss it as you fly into Seattle. It has stunning peaks and encompasses a full 369 square miles.
Wildlife
Mount Rainier has 65 mammal, 14 amphibian, 5 reptile, 182 bird, and 14 species of native fish. You may see mountain lion, bobcat, red fox, coyote, black bear, deer, elk, mountain goat, rabbits, porcupine, marmots, and many other mammals along your hike. Be sure to keep your distance from wildlife and do not feed them. Also, pack out all your garbage to protect everyone.
Alpine Flowers
There are hundreds of species of wildflowers in Mount Rainier, and it is known as one of the best places in the world to view them. The Subalpine regions, those ranging from about 4,500-6,500 feet, have the most impressive areas of wildflowers. As snow can linger well into the months of June and July, wildflowers reproduce very quickly before snow returns. The best times to see these alpines flowers are mid to late July through August, and possibly September. There is nothing like seeing the rushing waterfalls from melting glaciers, snow banks, and alpine flowers all in the same hike as you can get from visiting Mount Rainier on a clear summer day.
Paradise Area
Weather
Mount Rainier is so large that it creates its own weather system. Clouds circulating around the mountain can be so thick at times, you may not even see the mountain; even standing right in front of it. It is always best to check the road and weather conditions before visiting, as it can dramatically affect your visit.
Climate at Mount Rainier is heavily influenced by the marine weather flowing in from the Pacific Ocean, especially in the Paradise area. Harsh conditions can move in very quickly and without warning. Sunrise is on the east side of the mountain, so it gets less rain from the Pacific. Paradise once held the world record for the most snowfall in a single year at 93.5 feet back in 1971; and the average annual snowfall at Paradise is 53.3 feet.
Planning Your Visit to Mount Rainier
Closest Airport: Seattle, WA
Operating Hours: Open All Year; although only the Nisqually Entrance is open in winter. All cars are required to carry chains between November 1 and May 1.
Entrance Fee: $15 – 30 per vehicle, valid for 7 consecutive days.
Time Entry Reservations: are needed for certain gates and during certain dates and times of the year.
Nisqually (southwest entrance) SR 706
This road has access to the Longmire and Paradise areas. Longmire has the National Park Inn, Longmire Museum and the Wilderness Information Center. Paradise has the Henry M. Jackson Visitor Center, Paradise Inn, and the Paradise Guide House. Both the Paradise Inn and the National Park Inn offer dining and overnight lodging inside the National Park.
Stevens Canyon (southeast entrance) US Highway 12
This road is known as the White Pass Scenic Byway just east of Packwood. It connects inside the park via the Cayuse Pass SR 123. Here you will have access to the Ohanapecosh Visitor Center, Ohanapecosh Campground, Grove of the Patriarchs, Box Canyon Picnic Area, Paradise, and Reflection Lakes.
White River (northeast entrance) SR 410
This road is known as the Chinook Scenic Byway and has access to the Sunrise area. Sunrise has the Sunrise Visitor Center and the Day Lodge. It also has access to the Crystal Mountain Resort.
Carbon River (northwest entrance) SR 165
This road is one of the few places mountain bikes are allowed within the National Park.
Peak Season: July – August
Cell Service: Reception is very sketchy and mostly nonexistent
Gas Stations: None inside the Park. The closest stations are in Ashford or Packwood on the south side, or Buckley on the north side.
National Park Inn, built in 1906, is in Longmire and sits at an elevation of 2,700 feet. It is open year round. It has lodging, dining, and a general store.
Paradise Inn, built in 1916, sits at an elevation of 5,420 feet. It is open from mid-May through early October. It has lodging, dining, a gift shop, and a post office. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy your evening after a long day of hiking and one of personal favorite places to stay.
Campgrounds: Cougar Rock, Ohanapecosh, and White River
Paradise Inn
Lodging Outside the Park:
Many types of lodging choices can be found just outside the park entrances ranging from cabins, to motels, and even hotels further out from the park.
Crest Trail Lodge, located in Packwood, is on the southeast entrance to the park. It is approximately 46 miles from the Paradise Visitor Center. It has large rooms, air conditioning, heat, microwaves, refrigerators, free wifi, free parking, and an amazing continental breakfast. Staff are super friendly and helpful.
Food can be found at the National Park Inn (open all year), Paradise Inn (open mid-May to early October), Paradise Camp Deli inside the Jackson Visitor Center at Paradise (open weekends and holidays in the winter and daily mid-May through early October), and at the Sunrise Day Lodge (open July through September), which has a snack bar.
Visitor Centers:
- Longmire Museum
- Henry M. Jackson
- Memorial at Paradise
- Ohanapecosh
- Sunrise
- Carbon River Ranger Station
Sunrise Visitor Center
Picnic Areas:
Picnic areas can be located at Cougar Rock, Paradise, Box Canyon, and the Ohanapecosh Campground.
Pets:
Pets are welcome in some areas. They must be on a leash at all times, under owner control, not more than 6 feet in length or in a cage. Owners must pick up and dispose all fecal matter. Pets are not permitted on trails, wilderness and/or off-trail areas, inside buildings, amphitheaters, and roads that are closed for winter.
Winter Activities:
Winter activities include snow shoeing, snowboarding, skiing, snowmobiling, and cross-country skiing.
Tips to Visiting Mount Rainier
Stay overnight inside the National Park if possible to avoid waiting at entrances to visit. Reservations inside the park can fill up one year or more in advance.
Best time to visit is July – August.
Visit mid-week. Wait times at Nisqually and White River Entrances can be over an hour on busy summer weekends and holidays.
Enter before 10:00 am or after 2:30 pm. Parking is limited and usually fills up by late morning.
Have an alternate plan if lines are long. Consider visiting USFS lands, Crystal Mountain Resort, or the Ashford County Park.
Use an annual park or interagency pass or have the correct payment in cash. Credit cards are accepted, but take longer to process. You can also purchase your pass online through YourPassNow.com and print prior to your visit.
Check road conditions and the weather before visiting. Road closures and not being able to see Mount Rainier can hamper a trip experience.
Check Twitter for congestion updates; the parks primary source of congestion information.
Pack a cooler with lots of food, snacks, and water. You will want to visit the park all day and there a very few food choices. Picnics are always a nice way to visit the park.
May and June have less crowds and heavy flowing waterfalls; however, will likely have snow and hiking trails may be inaccessible. It also offers the lowest possible times of actually seeing Mount Rainier due to the clouds, rain, and/or snow.
September has autumn fall colors and less crowds, but possibly less alpine flowers and is known as it’s rainiest month.
Packing Tips to Summer Hiking in the Park
- Wear appropriate clothing. Plan for weather changes. Carry a raincoat, extra layers of clothing, and/or a jacket. Weather changes quickly, especially at mountain peaks with wind, and possibly snow.
- Quality backpack for carrying supplies.
- Comfortable water-resistant hiking shoes or boots.
- Thick breathable socks to help with blisters.
- Lots of Water (carry more than what you think you need).
- A map of the area along with hiking trails.
- Food and snacks in sealed containers (so animals do not smell it).
- Compass
- Flashlight
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen
- Mosquito repellant
- Pocketknife
- Matches in a waterproof container
- Candle or Firestarter
- First Aid Kit
- Wet Wipes
- Trekking Poles for snowbanks
- Camera
- Battery Charger
- Zip lock bags to protect gear from rain
Be sure to tell someone about your travel plans, start early so you don’t end up hiking down in the dark, and never travel alone or at all if visibility is low or poor.
Paradise or Sunrise
So which one should you visit? Which one is better?
Paradise
Paradise is on the southwest end of Mount Rainier and sits at an elevation of 5, 400 feet. It is known for it’s glorious views of glaciers, waterfalls, and alpine meadows. It is the most visited side of the park, and can get very crowded in summer. Parking is limited, but it does have an overflow parking area down the hill at the Paradise Picnic Area. This side of the mountain is most affected by the marine weather flowing in from the Pacific Ocean, so weather changes quickly.
At Paradise you will find the Henry M. Jackson Visitor Center, Paradise Inn, and the Paradise Guide House. The Visitor Center offers exhibits, ranger-led programs, a gift store, cafeteria, bathrooms, and provides a film about the park. It is usually open from mid-May to early October. From mid-October to April it is only open on weekends and holidays, as the entire Paradise Inn is covered in snow and closed in winter.
As you make your way along this drive to the Paradise Visitor Center, you will pass Inspiration Point and Reflection Lakes.
Hiking
There are several hiking trails going to Paradise, and at the Paradise Visitor Center. It’s most famous trail is the Skyline Loop, via the High Skyline Trail. It’s 5.5 miles roundtrip with a 1700 foot gain in elevation. It takes the average person about 4 ½ hours to hike this trail. As for the photographer like myself, its more of a 6 hour hike or longer, stopping to enjoy the breath taking views along the way. Add a picnic lunch at the top and now you’ve added even more time. There is only one outdoor pit toilet at the top near Panorama Point (open only in summer), and no food or water. Be sure to read my Packing Tips to Summer Hiking in the Park and take a map before attempting this hike. I highly recommend this trail and would suggest to even take the outer trails of Deadhorse Creek Trail and the Glacier Vista Trail to get even closer to the Glaciers of Mount Rainier.
It is considered a strenuous trail and starts on the north side of the upper parking lot near the visitor center, stairs leading to it’s starting point. Don’t think you can make it? Try as much as you can, you won’t be disappointed. Take your time, stop, take breaks, drink water, and enjoy the view. It is my all time favorite hike!
Some may ask, which way do I go? Clockwise towards Panorama Point, or counter-clockwise from Myrtle Falls. I personally prefer going clockwise so Mount Rainier is always in my view. It is very steep and you get to rocky areas with large steps. It can be very hard on your knees. Going counter-clockwise is more gradual and even paths, but then you have to come down those large rocks, which to me, is even harder on your knees. Plus you don’t get to see Mount Rainer for large parts of the trail and I don’t think it is as scenic.
Skyline Loop, via High Skyline Trail Paths
Glaciers with waterfalls
Paths become large steps with rocks, many times over.
Followed by alpine flowers and views of meadows below.
Rocky paths that narrow as you ascend.
Gradually to even steeper paths with rocks.
Find marmots along the way.
Most people stop at Panorama Point and go back the way they came. I recommend to keep going. It’s not much further to the peak, and you’ve already worked so hard to get to this point. For a shorter route back down, you can also try the Golden Gate Trail, taking about 1 ½ miles off your hike and easier on your knees.
Panorama Point
Climbing further gets you even closer to the glaciers.
Watch the clouds as they circle around Mount Rainier and the winds as they whip by.
The descent down towards Myrtle Falls on the other side.
Snowbanks
Hear the whistling sounds and watch as marmots play.
Sunsets
Passing Sluiskin and Myrtle Falls.
Dusk at Mount Rainier
Paradise is a glorious hike and will make you smile all day long on its journey. For those of you who don’t want to hike it, or those needing wheel chair accessibility, you can also take the Skyline Trail straight to Myrtle Falls. This one mile round trip paved trail will get you fantastic views of Mount Rainier and beautiful waterfalls. Be sure to take the steep set of steps down to the lookout point. Its a quick 35 minute hike at only a 100 foot gain in elevation. It leaves from the north side of the upper parking lot near the visitor center. There’s no reason to miss it, even those on short time, or low on stamina, can make this short walk.
Nisqually Vista Trail (Easy)
1. 2 miles round trip trail with a 200 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 45 minutes to complete. Great for families and those with strollers. Located on the northwest side of the lower parking lot.
Deadhorse Creek and Moraine Trails (Moderate)
2.5 miles round trip with a 400 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 1 ¾ hours to complete. It also connects to the Glacier Vista trail and then back down the Skyline Trail. It is located on the northwest end of the lower parking lot.
Alta Vista Trail (Moderate)
1.75 miles round trip with a 600 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 1 ¼ hours to complete. You can find it on the lower parking lot, or the north side of the upper parking near the visitor center.
Lakes Trail via Reflection Lakes (Moderate)
5 miles round trip with a 1300 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 4 hours to complete. Located at the Reflection Lakes parking lot.
Bench and Snow Lakes Trail (Moderate)
2.5 miles round trip with a 700 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 2 hours to complete. Located near Reflection Lakes on the south side of the road, about 1.5 miles east.
Pinnacle Peak (Strenuous)
3 miles round trip with a 1150 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 3 hours to complete and is located across the road from Reflection Lakes.
Panorama Point via the Skyline and Golden Gate Trails (Moderate)
4 miles roundtrip with a 1700 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 3 hours to complete. It is located on the north side of the upper parking lot near the visitor center.
Additional Hiking Trails on the South End of Mount Rainer (Paradise Side)
Longmire Area Trails
See this map for information about trails in this area. Popular ones in this area are the Christine Falls Trail and the Comet Falls Trail (which is very strenuous and can be dangerous).
Ohanapecosh Area Trail
See this map for information about trails in this area. Popular ones in this area are the Grove of the Patriarchs Trail and the Silver Falls Trail.
Sunrise
Sunrise is on the northeast side of Mount Rainier and sits at an elevation of 6, 400 feet. It is the highest point that is accessible by car within the National Park. It offers 360 degree views of surrounding valleys and other volcanoes within the Cascade Range. It also gives you more of an up close feeling, as Mount Rainier is right in your face, even as you drive up to the visitor parking lots. For those with mobility issues, this may be a good choice to be able to see Mount Rainier’s glacier covered peaks up close.
Many people like this side of the mountain because it is less crowded. Sunrise has no overflow parking lot, so visitors are held at the White River Entrance and allowed in as capacity allows. Although this may also leave you sitting in your car some time as you wait to get in. Other reasons people love this side is because it is more in nature and not as “touristy” as the Paradise side is. Trails aren’t paved and you are more in the forests, or along rocks and dirt paths. Many people like the feeling that this “nature” side gives them.
Sunrise is on the east side of the mountain, so it does tend to get less rain from the Pacific, but it also gets even more snow due to its higher elevation, usually not even opening until after the first week of July.
Scenic Parking Area Going to Sunrise
You get to look right at Mount Rainier driving up.
Sunrise Visitor Center
The Sunrise Visitor Center is open from early July through early September. It features exhibits, books, guided interpretive programs, and a picnic table. It is closed in winter.
Here you will also find the Sunrise Day Lodge. It is open from early July to late September. It features food and a gift shop; great after a full days hike.
There is no overnight lodging in the Sunrise Area.
Sunrise Nature Trail (Easy)
1.5 mile round trip trail with a 300 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 45 minutes to complete. Located at the upper end of the picnic area.
Silver Forest Trail (Easy)
2 miles round trip trail with a 150 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 1 hour to complete. Located south of the parking lot. Be sure to stop at the Emmons Vista Overlook (another ½ mile).
Sourdough Ridge Trail (Moderate)
West (left) to Frozen Lake : 3 miles round trip trail with a 500 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 1 ½ hours to complete. Or East (right) to Dege Peak: 4.2 miles round trip with a 800 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 2 ½ hours to complete. Located straight up from the picnic tables on the Sourdough Ridge Trail.
Emmons Moraine Trail (Moderate)
3 miles round trip trail with a 700 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 3 hours to complete. Begins in the “D” loop of the White River Campground and follows for one mile on the Glacier Basin Trail, then left at the fork towards the moraine.
Sunrise Rim Trail (Strenuous)
5.2 miles round trip trail with a 1000 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 3 hours to complete. Follow the Sunrise Rim Trail to Shadow Lake and Glacier Overlook, then on to the 1st Burroughs Mountain.
Burroughs Mountain Trails (Strenuous, yet very popular)
(CAUTION: Has hazardous conditions with icy slopes)
1st Burroughs
4.8 miles round trip trail with a 900 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 3 hours to complete.
2nd Burroughs
6 miles round trip trail with a 1200 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 4 hours to complete.
Both start at the upper end of the picnic tables. Follow the Sourdough Ridge Trail to Frozen Lake, then climb up the Burroughs Mountain Trails. You can return via the Sunrise Rim Trail.
Mount Fremont Lookout Trail (Strenuous)
5.6 miles round trip trail with a 900 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 3 ½ hours to complete. Follow the Sourdough Ridge Trail to Frozen Lake and then the Mount Fremont Trail to the old fire lookout.
Upper Palisades Lake Trail (Strenuous)
7 miles round trip trail with a 1800 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 5 hours to complete. Begin at Sunrise Point and then follow Palisades Lake Trail past Clover Lake to Upper Palisades Lake. This trail does not offer any views of Mount Rainier.
Glacier Basin Trail (Strenuous)
6.5 miles round trip trail with a 1700 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 6 hours to complete. Begins in the “D” loop of the White River Campground
Berkeley Park Trail (Strenuous)
7 miles round trip trail with a 1200 foot gain in elevation. Takes approximately 5 hours to complete. Start at the picnic tables and go up the Sourdough Ridge Trail to Frozen Lake. Then follow the Northern Loop Trail down into Berkeley Park.
Additional Hiking Trails on the North Side of Mount Rainier (Sunrise Side)
Meadows of the Sunrise Area
Huckleberry Basin
Frozen Lake
Burroughs Mountains
Hikes to Glacier Overlook
Shadow Lake
Hiking Back to the Sunrise Visitor Center
For additional information on all hiking trails in Mount Rainier,
click here.
Are you an avid experienced hiker or climber and up for a massive challenge? Try the 93 mile Wonderland Trail encircling Mount Rainier with a 23,000 foot gain/loss in elevation; taking approximately 9-13 days to complete. It goes through forests, valleys, sub-alpine, and high alpine vistas. Or perhaps even the climb to Camp Muir, a 9 mile 4,680 foot gain in elevation (total elevation of 10,188 feet) through unmarked glaciated trails. It usually takes days to complete, allowing time to acclimate to the altitude. These are only for experienced hikers and climbers with the proper training, health, equipment, and may require permits and reservations. Hike or climb at your own risk!
__________________________________________________
So which side do you think you'd like?
I recommend visiting both sides though. If I had to only hike one of them, it would be Paradise for sure. Keep in mind, if you want to hike both, pick some smaller trails in between the days and don’t try to do them back to back. It’s too hard on your knees, so give yourself at least 3 days.
__________________________________________________
Pinterest Pin
This article is dedicated to:
Karin
Leave A Comment